Mushroom pâté is the key to an umami

Jim Webster

THE WASHINGTON POST – At first glance, the banh mi would seem to be an ideal sandwich to adapt for a plant-based diet.

That's because, in the photo-ready version of the symbolic sandwich of Vietnam, you see an individual loaf of Vietnamese baguette overflowing with leafy cilantro, a tangle of carrot and daikon radish pickles, generous slices of cucumber, and as many rings of jalapeño as fit your tolerance and personality. You know there's something under all that, but it seems like that could be switched out as a cosmetic change, right?

Sort of. Classically, that base layer is playing the definitive role in the sandwich, and it's probably meat. If you go to a banh mi shop, it will almost always have a vegetarian version, most likely with tofu, in the spot where the meat would otherwise be. And that's fine.

So you can have that sandwich, and it might be terrific. But if you have history with the classic banh mi, it might seem like something is missing. Because something is.

The one thing that can be a challenge to translate without using an animal product is the pâté spread on the bread. By the time you see the sandwich, that pâté is probably thoroughly obscured by everything on top of it, but its presence is abundantly clear as soon as you take a bite – a grounding element of earthiness and funk that gives that garden of bright freshness on top something to cut through.

And a banh mi is just not the same without it. Some shops even note on the menu that the vegetarian versions don't have pâté on them. It's like a warning.

I’m not really in a position to solve many of the world's problems, but I felt like this was one I could take a crack at.

For the bulk of this sandwich, I changed nothing from the classic: Those toppings achieved classic status because they’re perfect. To replace the meat, I simply sauteed some oyster mushrooms, though any other – portobello, cremini, shiitake – would work. As would seared tofu.

To make the pâté, I sauteed some cremini – again, any mushroom would work – with shallot, then buzzed it in the food processor with fermented beans and powdered dry shiitakes to up the umami factor (I can't get enough mushrooms and love adding mushroom powder to things, but you can skip that if you want). The beans I had on hand were black and came in a jar with chilli oil, but any fermented bean product will work. If you go to an Asian market, you’ll probably find a shelf full of different varieties. Just close your eyes and pick one: It will work and be delicious. The fermented beans bring a version of the trademark funk of the original liver-based pâté.

That just leaves the bread, and while I am generally a fan of soft sub rolls, this is a place for a sturdy, crusty roll. If you can get your hands on traditional Vietnamese baguettes, you’re living a good life and should do that. If not, just go to the supermarket or your favourite bakery and get a good French baguette.

MUSHROOM BANH MI

A definitive element of a traditional banh mi is the liver-y pâté, and vegetarian versions of the classic Vietnamese sandwich often go without any alternative. Here, sauteed mushrooms are reduced to a paste with funky fermented beans to create a plant-based counterpart that may be even more interesting than the original. There are many varieties of fermented bean products available, using black, soya and broad (doubanjiang) beans.

Some are whole beans, others come in the form of paste. Some are packed in chilli oil. Any will work here.

The choice of bread is critical: You’ll need something with an assertive crustiness to offset the softness of the mushrooms and pâté. This was tested with a standard supermarket French baguette that was 22 inches long and weighed 10 ounces. If you’d like to warm the bread, you might need to cut it in half to fit in the oven.

INGREDIENTS

For the quick picklesOne cup water, dividedOne tablespoon granulated sugarTwo teaspoons fine saltOne cup rice vinegarSix ounces carrot, cut into thin matchsticks or coarsely gratedSix ounces daikon radish, cut into thin matchsticks or coarsely grated

For the pâté

Half ounce dried shiitake mushrooms (optional)One tablespoon toasted sesame oilEight ounces cremini mushrooms, slicedOne medium shallot, minced (may substitute half cup minced red onion)Two tablespoons fermented beans, bean paste or beans in chilli oilFour tablespoons unsalted butter (dairy or vegan), divided

For the sandwich

One tablespoon neutral oil, such as canola or grapeseedOne pound large mushrooms, preferably oyster, trimmed and broken into large piecesHalf teaspoon fine saltHalf teaspoon freshly ground black pepperOne baguette, warmed, if desired (may substitute four crusty sub rolls)One large cucumber, slicedLeaves from one bunch fresh cilantroOne jalapeño, thinly sliced

DIRECTIONS

Make the pickles: In a small saucepan over high heat, bring half cup of the water to a boil (or heat it in the microwave on HIGH for about two minutes), then add the sugar and salt, and stir to dissolve.

Remove from the heat and add the remaining half cup water and the vinegar. Toss the carrot and daikon in the brine and let sit for at least 20 minutes and use right away, or transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate until needed.

Make the pâté: If using the dried shiitakes, in a coffee/spice grinder, process the mushrooms until they form a powder, 30 seconds to one minute.

If any large pieces of mushrooms remain after one minute, discard them. You should get about two tablespoons of powder. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the sesame oil until it shimmers. Add the cremini mushrooms and shallot and saute, stirring regularly, until the mushrooms soften and brown, give up their liquid and it evaporates, about 10 minutes.

Transfer the cremini mushrooms to the bowl of a food processor, add the shiitake powder, if using, and fermented beans and process until the mushrooms break down into a smooth paste.

With the motor running, add the butter, one tablespoon at a time, letting it incorporate before adding more. Use right away, or refrigerate in an airtight container until needed. You should get about one-and-one-quarter cups.

Make the sandwich: In the same skillet you used for cremini mushrooms, over medium-high heat, heat the oil until shimmering.

Add the mushroom pieces, season with the salt and pepper, and cook until they release their liquid, it evaporates and they begin to brown on the bottom, about eight minutes. (If you have something heavy, such as a small cast-iron skillet, use it to press the mushrooms to get a better sear). Stir and brown the other side, an additional five minutes.

Cut the baguette across the equator, leaving one of the long sides intact and open the bread like a sub roll (alternately, use the smaller sub rolls).

Spread the pâté, warm or chilled, along the bottom half of the bread, then follow with the sauteed mushrooms. Top with the cucumber slices, quick pickles, cilantro leaves and jalapeño slices. Cut the baguette across into four pieces and serve. (Or assemble four individual subs on smaller rolls, dividing the ingredients evenly, and serve).